Ghana’s Sustainable FashionIn the heart of Accra, the bustling Kantamanto Market once symbolised the ingenuity and resilience of Ghana’s second-hand clothing trade. Today, it has become the epicentre of an environmental and public health crisis due to fast fashion. Every week, the market receives 15 million discarded garments from the Global North – clothes too cheap, too poor in quality or too plentiful to sell at home. Ghana is now one of Africa’s largest importers of used clothing, yet nearly 40% of these imports end up as waste, placing the burden of the global fashion industry’s overproduction squarely on the shoulders of Ghana’s working poor. To reclaim their livelihoods, participants of Ghana’s sustainable fashion movement are working to revitalise and rebuild the second-hand clothing market.

Background

Detrimental environmental and economic consequences arise from fast-fashion waste in Ghana; piles of unsellable materials overwhelm landfills, clog waterways and spill into neighboring communities, while toxic chemicals from synthetic fibres threaten to obliterate biodiversity and animal habitats. Furthermore, the 30,000 traders, tailors and entrepreneurs of Kantamanto market – long celebrated for breathing new life into the fashion industry’s cast-offs – now contend with mountains of unmarketable textile waste. This intensifies the strain on local businesses and could make people abandon their craft entirely and become second-hand sellers. This instability highlights the need for Ghana’s sustainable fashion movement.

The Or Foundation

Founded in 2022 as a community business incubator, the Or Foundation is at the forefront of Ghana’s sustainable fashion movement, striving to implement cooperative business models for these numerous upcycling businesses born from the textile crisis in Accra. Working closely within the insular divisions of Kantamanto market, the foundation transforms a seemingly hopeless situation into one of innovation and prosperity.

Liz Ricketts of the Or Foundation speaks of its aim to restore a circular economy – where products, materials and resources are kept in use for as long as possible to minimise waste and environmental harm – to liberate Accra from the severe effects of Western overproduction. Ricketts describes the foundation’s goals as including: “the development of new materials made from textile waste, debt relief for Kantamanto retailers, alternative livelihoods for young women who labour in modern-day slavery carrying bales of clothing on their heads, and scientific research to determine how we can safely clean up the waste at the bottom of the sea.”

In reclaiming their second-hand trade, the foundation’s role in Ghana’s sustainable fashion movement confronts a long history of colonial oppression and works to restore justice to those most affected. Through rallying communities together, initiating waste control services and showcasing upcycled fashion items, they do just this

Waste Management

Ghana does not “have the infrastructure to keep clothing […] out of landfill,” Lisa explained. To address this, the Or Foundation has partnered with Accra’s waste management department to organize and fund a team of volunteers who separate textile waste into sellable garments and those that require sustainable disposal.

Since 2024, these “Kanta Keepers” have successfully hauled more than 18 tons of textile waste from not just the overflowing market site, but also beaches, waterways and streets, transporting them to a sanctioned dumpsite far from the coastline, according to the Or Foundation.

Their work not only protects the health of individuals in Kantamanto, but also preserves ecosystems that are threatened by synthetic, slow-decomposing textiles. This marks an important step towards the circular economy envisioned by Ricketts and the Or Foundation.

Repurposing Garments

Of the garments diverted from landfill, many are upcycled into creative, sustainable and forward-thinking fashion projects. Ricketts underscores the economic burden of fast-fashion waste on the Kantamanto workers, noting that declining clothing quality forces “Kantamanto retailers [become] dependent on a system where they have to sell higher quantities of a cheaper product to stay out of debt,” Lisa explained. By generating alternative streams of income, the Or Foundation provides much-needed relief and strengthens Ghana’s sustainable fashion movement from within.

One example is the annual “Obroni Wau” (or “dead white man’s clothing”) festival, which spotlights upcycling and creative reuse through runway shows, pop-up stalls and musical performances, according to VOA. This celebration amplifies the work of local designers, tailors and traders who transform discarded garments into “one of a kind creations,” as Lisa describes. Tailors have even fashioned protective uniforms for Ghanaian pineapple pickers from discarded denim, shielding workers from burns and rashes in the field. These artisans become highly sought-after for their unique, custom-made pieces, ensuring that the cultural identity of Ghana’s second-hand clothing trade remains vibrant. Hence, this Or Foundation’s work in manifesting a circular economy sector is creating new jobs in repair, design, resale and small-scale manufacturing, transforming the livelihoods of those in and around Kantamanto.

In Conclusion

When talking about how to confront a problem that feels too vast to solve, Lisa explains to Good on You that “sustainability is a language… communities like Kantamanto are still fluent.” By reframing textile waste as both a valuable resource and an integral part of Ghana’s social fabric, Kantamanto promotes fairer trade systems and greater producer responsibility. Through their initiatives, Ghana’s sustainable fashion movement is guiding key legislation, policy-makers and industry advocates – illustrated by the creation of the Ghana Used Clothing Dealers Association and its commitment to achieving 100% textile-waste diversion by 2050 – towards regenerative systems that maximise the lifespan of materials.

In many ways, Ghana’s circular economy has become a pioneer of fast-fashion waste innovation. Lisa further argues that resolving the fast-fashion crisis begins with a simple directive: “all we have to do is listen”. Recognizing the perspectives and lived experiences of the workers and broader Kantamanto community is essential, as such engagement can drive real-world solutions to the fast-fashion waste crisis.

– Emily Wooster

Emily is based in Birmingham, UK and focuses on Good News and Global Health for The Borgen Project.

Photo: Flickr

garbage cafes

India is one of the most densely populated countries in the world. It has a population of more than one billion within its territory, which makes up 17.5% of the world’s overall population. The country’s growth rate, however, has stood at less than 1% since 2018. It is located in South Asia, with countries around its borders such as Pakistan, China, Nepal and Bangladesh.

The country has 28 states and eight union territories, each with its own government bodies. It is officially known as the Republic of India and is known for having one of the largest democracies in the world. India has many facts that are unique to its people, but one unexpected fact is that it is currently the world’s largest producer of plastic waste.

Plastics for Change

According to Plastics for Change, India was labeled as the world’s biggest polluter. In 2024, it was reported that the country produced 20% of the overall plastic waste that pollutes land and oceans. There are more than 9 million tonnes of waste generated by the country each year, which exceeds competing countries such as China and Nigeria. The waste is largely created by population growth, urbanization and development within the economy. As the population increases, the need for resources expands, like building more housing and grocery stores. The need for plastic resources is especially high within urban areas.

Waste and Poverty in India

Poverty in India has decreased significantly between 2016 and 2021. The number of people living in poverty decreased from more than 300 million between 2015 and 2016 to around 230 million between 2019 and 2021. As of 2025, 83 million people live in poverty in India, with more females being impacted. This shows the country has taken great strides in investing in its people.

There have been large impacts, such as investments in the economy, roads and connectivity between local and urban areas. There have also been job creations in various fields and aid programs accessible to the public. India is currently known as the fastest-growing economy in the world and has a high gross domestic product (GDP). Even though poverty in India has not been eradicated, there are cafes in the country offering meals to people in need in exchange for collecting waste.

Garbage Cafes

It all began in 2019 after multiple reports of plastic waste impacting communities and cities in India. One such city that took the initiative was Ambikapur. One of the first “garbage cafes” opened with one simple policy: every person who turns in 2.2 pounds of plastic waste gets a full meal. These meals include rice, vegetables and other staples vital to one’s diet. For those who collect 1 pound of waste, they can purchase breakfast items. With this cafe serving 20 meals daily, it presents a solution to waste polluting the city’s streets. In total, the cafe has collected more than 20 metric tonnes of waste since its creation.

This garbage cafe prides itself on its slogan, “more the waste, better the taste.” It prioritizes two main issues within its city and India as well: hunger and plastic waste pollution. People who struggle to make ends meet for their families have access to meals that can benefit them and their loved ones. The cafe is operated by the Ambikapur Municipal Corporation (AMC), which oversees this local initiative.

Creation of Jobs

It may have started in Ambikapur, but garbage cafes have spread to other cities in India, such as Siliguri and Mulugu. These cafes have similar policies that provide meals to people in need who collect waste. Another campaign offers period products to those who collect plastic waste. These initiatives help rid streets of pollution while also providing citizens with basic needs. Cambodia has also adopted similar programs, showing how positive responses to these initiatives can lead to long-term benefits.

The Municipal Corporation has also provided jobs that would not have been available otherwise. It employs more than 400 women to sort plastic waste after collection. They are given the necessary tools, such as gloves and masks, to protect themselves. They also go around neighborhoods to collect the waste from homes. This shows the creation of jobs that help people who may have been unemployed, especially women who are often most impacted by poverty.

Looking Ahead

Garbage cafes have created opportunities for people in poverty to supply meals for themselves and their families. This shows the importance of investments in communities and how corporations can assert themselves in this role. For the 83 million who remain in poverty in India, there are initiatives by the government and garbage cafes to alleviate daily burdens. There are job openings, investments in community cleanups and meal provisions where necessary. India has shown one initiative that other countries can adopt to target two issues at one time.  

– Nickaylia Anderson

Nickaylia is based in Syracuse, NY, USA and focuses on Good News and Politics for The Borgen Project.

Photo: Flickr

levant startups Levant startups are reimagining how innovation can emerge in crisis-prone economies. Despite widespread poverty and instability, entrepreneurs in Jordan, Lebanon, Syria, and Palestine are launching ventures that tackle problems in education, finance and basic services. These efforts are fostering grassroots economic resilience and drawing attention to a region long underestimated by global observers.

Background

As of 2024, poverty in the Levant region remained high. Poverty affects 44% of Lebanese, 69% of Syrians, 24.1% of Jordanians and around 74% of Palestinians. Many countries in the Levant region also struggle with acute food insecurity, including 13 million out of 25 million Syrians and 91% of Palestinians. Meanwhile, Lebanon faces widespread malnutrition because of constant shortages of essential food items.

Debt, inflation, wars and unemployment significantly contribute to poverty in the Levant. Female economic participation is still a challenge in the region. In Jordan, the female unemployment rate rose to 33%, standing 11% higher than the overall unemployment rate. However, entrepreneurship in the Levant is helping to alter these statistics.

The region has faced ongoing pressures from citizens who are unable to afford necessities and governments with overwhelming amounts of debt. Soaring unemployment and inflation have exacerbated the crisis and rendered many countries unable to rebuild after wars and conflicts. Yet amid these challenges, new startups are tackling local problems by offering practical solutions to problems in the education, finance and food delivery industries, and laying the groundwork for broader economic transformation.

Notable Startups in the Levant

Founded in 2016 by Siroun Shamigian and Nisrine El Makkouk, Kamkalima in Lebanon is an education technology startup that provides a digital curriculum companion for Arabic language education. It offers e-learning modules and assessments for students in grades 4-12. The service also enables teachers to track student progress using advanced data analytics. The founders noticed that Lebanon’s Arabic education system lacked the digital tools needed to bolster students’ Arabic grades, which were consistently low. Kamkalima empowers teachers with data analytics tools to enhance lessons and track students’ progress, while providing students with interactive tools to aid their writing, reading, and listening skills in Arabic.

Large enterprises struggle with transparency, efficiency and data accuracy in a region where invoicing processes are often manual, error-prone, and non-compliant with evolving regulations. A Jordan-based team of seasoned FinTech professionals founded InvoiceQ, an SaaS-based digital invoicing platform that meets the needs of businesses in Saudi Arabia, Jordan and Oman. InvoiceQ offers real-time, automated invoicing, with approval workflows, API integrations and two-way customer/vendor integration. The platform enables enhanced decision-making, reduces human error and turns invoicing into a strategic financial tool.

In Syria, infrastructure for digital services like food delivery, e-commerce and mobility was virtually nonexistent until Malek Al-Muzayen established Bee Order. It began as Syria’s first food delivery app. Before Bee Order, restaurants lacked delivery drivers, online ordering was unfamiliar and economic instability made tech development risky. Al-Muzayen built and scaled a local fleet of 150 delivery vehicles, introduced mobile-based ordering, and later launched a ride-hailing app called Wasilni to meet transportation needs.

Levant Startups: Innovation in the Face of Instability

Despite entrenched economic hardships, startups across the Levant are helping communities adapt and thrive. From enhancing Arabic education through Kamkalima, to digitizing financial operations with InvoiceQ, to launching the region’s first food delivery and ride-hailing services via Bee Order and Wasilni, entrepreneurs are responding to local needs with scalable, tech-driven solutions. These ventures reflect a broader shift; young founders are tackling systemic issues with creativity and resourcefulness, even in the context of conflict and economic instability.

Other promising ventures include Tajir.Store, a Syrian e-commerce platform helping businesses to automate their online store operations, and Rocheta, a health care app that connects patients with pharmacies to have medications delivered to their homes. Together, these startups are weaving a grassroots foundation for more inclusive economic participation and long-term resilience in the region. As they continue to grow, they are not only meeting immediate needs but also laying the groundwork for broader transformation in education, finance, commerce and mobility.

– Haley Parilla

Haley is based in Cape Coral, FL, USA and focuses on Business and Politics for The Borgen Project.

Photo: Flickr